Friday, October 10, 2008

On pizza!

I have a confession to make. I live in Italy and until recently I did not like the pizza. On Sunday nights (what I like to call "mamma's night off" when it seems the whole country eats pizza) when friends would say "Let's meet for a pizza!" I'd grudgingly go along.

I grew up in the suburbs and on pan pizza at Pizza Hut (I know, I know - the shame) so my idea of pizza was three parts dough and one part heavily spiced tomato sauce and lots of toppings. Though never pineapple, OK? When I moved to New York, I'd always get a Sicilian slice, which is a nice big bready, crusty hunk of pizza. I lived in New York seven years and I occasionally say "on line" instead of "in line" when referring to queuing up but I just never could bring myself to call a pizza "a pie" and never really ordered that big floppy, cheesy frisbee that many NYC pizzerias sell. So I'm a bit of a reverse pizza snob seeing as though my pizza palate is admittedly not refined having spent my childhood consuming the chain-restaurant stuff and dipping my crust in marinara or garlic sauce. I've heard tell that in the Midwest some people even make "pizza" with those refrigerated Crescent rolls and Miracle Whip mayonnaise instead of tomato sauce though, fortunately, we never sank to those levels in my family. We don't do the jello-and-marshmallow salad either, just for the record.

The first time I had pizza in Milan I was utterly disappointed. The crust was thinner and blander than an unsalted Saltine, the sauce seemed like tomato paste straight out of the can and the vegetables were not freshly cut but dripping with oil having come straight out of the jar. Let's just say that I've had hospital food that is more flavorful than Milanese pizza. Granted, I don't eat cheese and I know that quality mozzarella could make all the difference. Maybe if I ate cheese, I'd be a thin-crust-pizza convert. So I've basically spent eight years avoiding going out for pizza. And the thing that sucks is that pizza is one of the few things that they deliver at home (though the only pizzeria that delivers in my neighborhood - called something like "Speedy Pizza" - takes a couple of hours to bring you your order...) where I live. In those early months of Dylan's life when making dinner was the last thing on my mind, having something delivered would have been really convenient. But I just dislike pizza so much here that I never considered it.

My no-pizza policy ended about a week ago. We discovered a pizzeria that is a cheap yet quaint hole-in-the-wall and makes real Neapolitan pizza, which "non c'entra niente" with that bland Milanese pizza. It satisfies my need for a bready, chewy crust without being obnoxiously thick. The tomato sauce is fresh as are the vegetables and other ingredients. My dining companions attested to the authenticity of the mozzarella. Insomma, it's everything pizza should be. I don't want to publish the address on my blog because really this is a find. We had found another Neapolitan pizzeria a while back that sadly has become a tourist trap and no longer serves the authentic stuff. But if you live in Milan or are going to be in the area, you can e-mail me and I'll give you the address. That is, if I deem you pizza-worthy!

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

ha i am the opposite of you. I used to like the pizza here until i got TOTALLY SICK of having it as the only 'fast food' option. We used to go out around once a week (mainly mid week to break the cooking rut!)to our local pizzeria which makes fabulous pizzas. After about a year of this i totally went off pizza for at least another 2 years. Now they are OK occasionally but oh give me some indian, thai,mexican, chinese etc anyday!!

Laughed when i read the comment about being the only place that delivers. Lots of the rosticcerie here also deliver (anything fried, anyone??). Yesterday I saw the local wine sfusi place also does 'servizio a domicilio' and i thought how handy is that?? Vanessa

nyc/caribbean ragazza said...

ha. this post cracked me. I understand what you mean about chain pizza. I've had my share once I went to college in upstate NY.

The little New Jersey town I lived from ages 10-18 had a kick ass pizza place, Anna Capri's. You couldn't mess around with pizza in my area. You had to represent.

As a result I am super picky about my pizza. When I went to college and my floor mates ordered Dominos I thought I was going to die. Pizza Hut? Get the *blank* outta here with that *blank*. Then I moved to L.A. I started to make my own pizza which was fun.

I had some of the most amazing pizza in my life when I went to Naples last year. Tracie B. took me. Of course I can't remember the name of the restaurant.

Two of the best pizza places in Rome are within walking distance. I feel very fortunate but have to watch it. The pizza is like crack.

Life is too short for crappy pizza. Glad you found a good place and hope it doesn't get ruined. :)

John said...

In Calgary (which has a fairly large Italian Community for Western Canada) we have three "Real Italian" places.

1. Il Centro
2. Boccavino
3. Pulcinella

I have been to Pulcinella a couple of times but find their pizzas too "Juicy", probably from deviating too much from the Classic Napoletana receipe (although they are suppose to be certified by l'Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana). Fresh Buffalo Mozza is a bonus however.

http://www.pulcinella.ca/

I have yet to try the other two.

Anne in Oxfordshire said...

I am not a huge fan of pizzas but when I was in Argegno, Lake como, we had fabulous pizza from La Piazetta in the square. We had great pizzas in Le Touquet, France, and Sicily as well.

J.Doe said...

I liked the pizza in Milan. Then again, try to find me some food that I DON'T like!!
Neapolitan pizza is the best though.
I'm glad you found a good place that you like.

Anonymous said...

Try the one of Rossopomodoro, it is very good.

Michellanea said...

Vanessa,
I know that in the center of Milan there are more delivery (actually more takeaway) options and that there are quite a few ethnic places. I'm on the outskirts of town, however...

NYC/Caribbean,
Imagine what you would have said if your college floormates had served you Crescent rolls with Miracle Whip on top and called it pizza? Ha ha. I stopped eating Pizza Hut when I found out they had meat stock in their sauce but I do have to say that it always seemed their veggies were cut fresh. Unlike here.

John,
New York has quite a few "real Italian" places but according to my Italian husband, they come close but there is something that is slightly off every time. Usually the cheese. Well,and the crust. Kind of like trying to order a "real" cappuccino outside of Italy.

Anne,
I'm not far from Como. I could check it out!

J.Doe,
Again, I think I dislike the pizza because I don't eat the cheese and I think cheese is the key ingredient in Milanese pizza. Because it certainly aint the crust!

Anon,
I've had it. Buona ma preferisco questo posto nuovo - la pizza è più rustica e autentica!