Update: I wrote this blog entry a few days ago and decided not to publish it because I felt I was being too negative. But after reading what Shelley wrote about her seven-year itch here in Italy, I realize I too am perhaps suffering from the same thing. Is it just me or are things getting progressively worse in Italy?
OK, I know I'm grumpy and complaining a lot lately. I'd make excuses for it, but there's really nothing I can offer by way of satisfying preface or apology. I've said it before but this little blog is sometimes the thorny tree where I hang my gripes and, unfortunately, I'm gripe-ier than usual. I hope to snap out of it soon because walking around with a black cloud over my head and a feeling of general dissatisfaction with what is going on around me in society is no fun for me either.
Friday morning I had to meet someone at the crack of dawn for a work meeting in the center of the city. We met on Corso Buenos Aires (a big long shopping boulevard and main thoroughfare here) as it was convenient to both of us. Time was of the essence so we ran in to the first bar we saw to have breakfast and discuss our business. Actually, it wasn't a bar but a "sala da the" (tea room). My companion ordered a cappuccino and I ordered a "tisana or any kind of tea without caffeine."
"Sorry," I was told. "We only have tea with caffeine."
"Well, I'm trying to avoid caffeine. Do you have any kind of green tea?" I asked thinking maybe I'd just let the bag steep a minute and then take it out before too much caffeine could poison the hot water.
"No," I was told. "No green tea."
I looked back toward the big painted letters on the window to confirm I had read that I was entering a "tea room."
When I asked what type of tea exactly they had, I was told they sold only one kind: Twining's English Breakfast. I hate bitter English Breakfast tea and, furthermore, how can a tea room not sell tisanas or caffeine-free teas?
The barista obviously saw the look on my face because she shrugged her shoulders and said "Sorry, for a tea room, we are badly organized." Uh, OK. Since when did that become an acceptable excuse? This is the same thing I keep hearing from the hospital where I'm going to give birth during my prenatal lessons - how disorganized they are!
And I got a similar lame excuse a few days before when I wanted to buy one subway ticket from the new automatic machines (I love progress - when it actually works!) they've installed in the subways. A ticket costs one Euro. I had a one-Euro coin. Easy, right? No, not exactly. The coin slot was not working and neither was the automatic bill slot thingie. What to do? The newsstand was closed so I couldn't get a ticket there. Would I really have to use my ATM card to buy one one-Euro ticket? I started to take my ATM card out and the lone public transportation employee on duty sauntered over and said "I wouldn't do that."
"Mi scusi? Wouldn't do what?" I asked.
"I wouldn't use your ATM card or a credit card. The gypsies come by every so often and somehow they've figured out a way to rig the machines and clone people's cards. They designed those machines badly," he said.
Well, thanks for the tip, buddy.
But here's what I keep asking myself: Why open a tea room if you don't actually sell tea? Why be disorganized and admit it? Why design something if you aren't going to do it properly? If you are a tea room with no tea, order some. If you are a hospital with bad organization, get organized. If your machines don't work properly, fix them. How hard is that? I'm sick of apathy. I 'm sick of nothing changing. I'm sick of shoulder shrugs and the phrase "that's just the way it is." My eternal optimist husband tells me to take all of my frustration and channel that in to changing things, but is that really possible? I've seen people try but with unsuccessful results. I'd be willing to try but is anyone else out there with me or have we all given up? This country needs to be turned completely inside out and yet another march, protest or strike is not going to accomplish anything. When I get like this, I don't feel like changing things. I feel like getting on Delta.com and booking the next flight home. Yes, home has its problems but they are (at least for me) familiar problems. Problems I can deal with. I'm starting to get to the point where I feel the old boot can hobble along without us.
P.S. Keeping with the whole negative theme, my other planned blog entry for this week was a photo entry of the (once) nice park they built in my neighborhood a mere three years ago. Unfortunately, it has been completely TRASHED. All of the benches broken and covered in graffiti. The characteristic street lamps busted out repeatedly so that not even one of them works today. The nice big sign welcoming you to the park with a history of the area and a map of all of the running and hiking trails is now so covered in graffiti, it is no longer legible. The tower they built where you can get a great view of the Alps is also covered in graffiti and someone has begun busting out the wooden stairs step by step. The metal bar they put up to prevent people on motorbikes from entering the park (the sign explaining "no motorbikes allowed" has been graffiti-ed over) has been taken down as if with a hacksaw. I will spare you that photo entry, but what is wrong with people?
Monday, September 24, 2007
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13 comments:
Fantastic blog! And a much welcomed read as I spend my last day here in Rome before moving to London! Best of luck with everything!
-Brendan
And yet another expat jumps the Italy ship and heads to greener pastures. Good luck to you!
Michelle
michelle - it drives me nuts too. It's funny how when you've been here a while the chaos starts to seem almost normal and "oh, we're badly organised" seems like a reasonable excuse. When I see tourists in the metro stations trying to work the ticket machines I now think to myself "what kind of idiot would trust the machines to work? Much better to buy them at the newsstand..." What has Italy done to my brain?
I have huge culture shock whenever we go to the Netherlands to visit OH's relatives. ALL the escalators in the train station work, the ticket sellers are efficient, polite and SPEAK ENGLISH, the bus meets the train, there are bike lanes, people read books rather than comics on the train etc etc. It's truly amazing after living here for a while.
Oh Michelle I understand everything you are saying. I am so frustrated with everything myself. Mostly the the non movement in the court system here and the fact that people working in the public sector feel that they don't have to lift a finger to do their jobs. I am seriously walking the fine line of sanity here because this crap is affecting MY family and I have had enough!
I have stayed away from my blog sinse I came back a few weeks ago from California because I was just so overwhelmed with being back in Milan again. I feel like I have nothing to say except to bitch.
I think you should complain all you want because it's your blog and it is probally therapeutic for you to write all the "crap" out.
I am starting to feel better in the last two days than I have felt in weeks so if you would like I would love to meet up.
Also be careful of green tea. It's full of caffeine. I was drinking SOBE green tea when I was pregnant with my younger son and I was getting really anxious. My doctor told me to cut it out and I felt much better when I did.
Is there something in the air? I think I've reached my lowest point today- I'm about to tear my hair out because of all the permesso bs I've been dealing with. I spent hours at the police station today with an officer who actually wanted to help me- imagine that- but in the end, he couldn't do anything because of how poorly set up the computer system is. I just wanted to cry, and to go home.
Hang in there Michelle. Your complaints are all to familiar to me. Ale always complains about Milan and Italy. Lately his colleagues and friends have been telling him he should leave Italy to find better opportunities. There just are none for him there. He says Milan has really changed. Does your OH not want to come live in the states??
It's your blog so be negative, complain....get it off your chest. I did on my blog when I lived in Italy. It's cheaper than therapy, and even though i did eventually move out of Italy it did keep me sane while I was living there.
Kataroma,
I, quite frankly, want to get out before chaos (or a number of other unpleasant things, such as thinking it's normal to slip your doctor an envelope full of cash as a "tip" for providing you a service that in other countries would be standard procedure) begin to seem normal to me.
Autumn,
I've been struggling a lot lately, and have not been blogging as much either because I didn't want to be all gloom and doom. I'll meet up volentieri.
KC,
Either something is in the air or we are all mired in bureaucratic BS (in your case permesso, in mine the health system) lately that is sending us over the edge. I typically try to live in my own protected bubble where I don't let certain things get to me, but lately I've spent too much time dealing with all of the negatives of Italy. And it's really, really getting to me.
Piccola,
Yes, my husband is definitely open to coming to live in the U.S. but, unfortunately, we are in no position to move any time soon. We are watching a family member slowly die of cancer (this is also not helping my mood, I'm sure), and this is no time for us to be making plans to go anywhere. Plus, I'm pregnant, he has a business here and I have "work" (not to be confused with an actual career). And we have an apartment and mortgage here. To say it would be difficult to extricate ourselves now is an understatement. Compounded by the fact that I have no real "base" in the U.S. that we could easily move back to. I'd like to go to New York, but that's a hard city to move to jobless, homeless and with a small child. Anyway, going off on a tangent but that's the situation!
J.Doe,
Yes, it is my blog and I can only write what I feel. I'd feel so fake writing about things I'm not feeling in the moment. There are moments where I really appreciate certain things about Italy, but this is not one of those moments so I can't force it. It's either write what I'm feeling or not write at all.
Amen, hallelujah.
jennifer
Michelle,
Wow, you seem to get into what I call the "F**K Italy" mood more often then me. If I wasn't so stubborn about getting the job I came here for done, then I would left long ago. I somehow feel like I'm forcing some people around here "to progress" but are they really?
I'm such a wimp and never write about it so maybe I read your blog to know it's not just me. Things aren't as rosy as I paint them in my blog but then I don't plan to be in Italy by this time next year. There, I said it.
Jeff
I know exactly how you feel. When I take my son to the park in Bologna the parks are full of dog poo, everything is graffited and broken. And this is meant to be a "rich city". It certainly costs enough to live here but to my (English) eyes I feel like I'm living in a hole.
It's funny I did not read this until today, after I posted my rant yesterday. I responded to your comment on my blog.
It's your blog and you should post how you feel or else what is the point? Sometimes I do worry that I write mostly negative things about Los Angeles, but it's my point of view. I am not going to say everything is full of sunshine and light if I don't feel that way.
I hope you will be able to find a place to move to where you can have a better quality of life. I agree with you NYC is no place to move, when you are unemployed and have a baby. Good luck Michelle.
Ha! In the few comments I got on my post, I was surprised to see a few Italians telling me that things are getting worse. I mean, we expats can whine and complain and can always be told "go back to where you came from," but how can you argue with the natives? Ask anyone... things *are* getting worse for residents, at least in the cities. Everywhere has its pros and cons, but I swear I feel like we are reaching a boiling point ... what's going to happen? Can it continue like this or is the top going to blow? The million-dollar question.
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